Each Sunday the Salvationists would gather
at St Giles Cemetery – once the site
of a medieval leper hospital
set well beyond Chester’s city limits.
To the thud of the bass drum, to chords of brass,
to banners declaiming ‘Be just, and fear not!’,
to the singing of ‘A friend of Jesus,
O what bliss!’, uniformed they would march
onwards to a ‘Stronghold of Satan’ –
past the spot where, high above the river,
a Protestant and a Catholic
were burned to death a century apart.
Beside the canal, near the abattoir,
steam mill and lead works, was a purpose-built
enclave of constricted streets of back-to-back
lodging houses, public houses, gin shops.
Steven Street – perhaps three yards across
and fifty long – was the centre of the slum,
and home to hundreds of Irish Catholics
who were refugees from the Great Hunger.
The Salvation Army would march past the cramped,
noisome ghetto along the canal path
to ‘O boundless salvation!’. One Sunday, ‘Black
Sunday’, an ecumenical group
of English and Irish, Catholics
and non-Catholics – probably outrageously
drunk, as well as outrageously poor –
waited for the parade to pass by
the canal end of Steven Street, then followed
the last rank – mocking the hymns, hurling abuse,
dead rats, stones, and unfurling a raggedy
banner with a scrawled skull and crossbones.
Some Salvationists were seriously
assaulted, needing medical attention –
but the magistracy, concerned for Chester’s
tourist trade, considered the Sally Army
provocative, so bound over
the Steven Street ‘generals’ to keep the peace,
despite green-ink letters to the local press
railing against Fenians and Popery.
That year the British sent forty thousand troops
to land at Alexandria and invade
the Suez Canal Zone, the canal itself
being supposedly under threat. Steven Street –
or, rather, its straitened dwellings – was demolished
when I was a young man, and replaced with a block
of social housing. About twenty feet
of narrow road way, barely a car’s width,
remains – but not much else has changed: lives crippled
by accident, and the self-interest
of others; lives abridged by class, and want,
and bigotry; whole nations hoodwinked
by wonders and marvels, by abstractions;
consumed, diminished by avarice.
British EmpireSalvation ArmySkeleton ArmiesSteven Street in Chesterthe Great Hungerthe Irish Famine
John Huddart
January 29, 2024This is near the Theatre Club, isn’t it? All those rehearsals, and evenings with Bernard in the bar, and never a thought for the layers beneath out feet.