We are going to observe the California
Sea Lions – those celebrated aquatic
mammals – at Pier 39, Fishermen’s Wharf,
San Francisco. We walk from the Handlery
to Union Square then board the street car
at 3rd & Kearny and descend, past
the Dragon Gate in Chinatown, left
at the Ferry Building and so to the Pier –
a place of family entertainment, with
a floating restaurant and two tier
carousel. On the marina’s wooden pontoons
families of sea lions bask. To our surprise
they smell like a freshly opened and
very large tin of anchovy fillets preserved
in brine. To our further surprise nobody
else seems to have noticed, or to care.
***
Out of the fretwork shadow of the Bay Bridge
dominating the office window,
away from Kaspar Gutman and Wilma Cook,
from Iva Archer and Ruth Wonderly,
away from the cable cars’ ratchet and clang,
the horns in the distant bay, down a side street,
out of the fog, and into the grilled meat
fug of gossip, the Lucky Strikes
and waiters’ bustling hustle at John’s Grill,
Sam Spade orders chops, baked potato
and sliced tomatoes – in two dimensions,
always black and white, ten point or ten foot high,
celluloid or paper, like the city
always friable and combustible!
***
From the stretch of water between the
Maritime Museum and Alcatraz,
brown pelicans rise like tawny galleons.
'The Maltese Falcon'AlcatrazSan Francisco
Jeff Teasdale
October 28, 2023I remember this well, David…the fishy smell (and the noise as they bellowed at each other) being quite overpowering. This was followed by fish chowder served in a hollowed-out bread bun, and then serenaded by a gravel-voiced black blues singer, who was amazed I knew the songs. Had I had my harmonica, I’d have joined in. Sonny Terry and Little Walter were my inspiring teachers! (As was Cyril Davies in the Marquee Club of my distant youth). Thanks for setting the memory free….